Video about royal begonia: how to propagate with a leaf
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Royal begonia is a popular houseplant. She can spend summer in the garden, and in winter she will decorate your house with her large, elegant leaves.
In the care of the decorative-deciduous begonia, it is not capricious, it does not make high demands on the conditions of detention, it grows quite quickly. It is not surprising that many would like to have this luxurious plant in their homes.
Our article provides information on vegetative propagation of the royal begonia variety Griffin. It will help you grow a begonia bush from a leaf cuttings without any problems.
Breeding video of royal begonia
Before us is a royal begonia plant of the Griffin variety. She is already three years old. This is a very large plant. The begonia spent the whole summer outside, and returned to the room for the winter. To evenly illuminate the bush, I use backlighting.
Begonia breeding tips
I decided to breed this variety. Not everyone knows that royal begonia can be propagated both by cuttings, cutting off the stem along the internode above the two lower leaves and placing the cuttings in the water for rooting, and by cutting or breaking them off with the cuttings. In this case, the leaves are lowered by cuttings into a jar filled with water by a third, and covered with a transparent plastic bag.
I cut the leaves on September 10, and today it is October 15. I must say that the room was cool, 17 ⁰C, and for successful rooting, you need to create a temperature of 24-26 ⁰C, so instead of two to three weeks, the leaves rooted for more than four. To date, not all leafy cuttings have survived this stress, some of them have died, and this is natural. And some have released roots, and now they can be planted.
Where to plant cuttings
To plant the cuttings, you need a pot with a diameter of 10-12 cm and a light peat mixture with perlite. Planting rooted begonia leaves in execution is very simple. The first step is to prepare 100-150 ml of warm water with a small amount of Kornevin for watering the planted leaf cuttings. The liquid should be cloudy.
Now pour a layer of potting soil about 3 cm thick into the pot so that the roots of the plant don't touch the bottom of the pot. Take a cutting, straighten its roots, lower them into the pot and gradually add the substrate to the container until it fills up to a height of 1.5-2 cm from the edge. After planting, lightly tamp the soil around the cutting and pour it with Kornevin's solution. The excess liquid will pour out through the drainage holes, but if there is not enough moisture, it will make it difficult for the cuttings to root.
This is how the vegetative propagation of royal begonia is carried out with a leaf cuttings.
- Read the topic on Wikipedia
- Features and other plants of the family Begoniaceae
- List of all species on The Plant List
- More information on World Flora Online
- Indoor Plants Information
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Begonia leaf propagation: advantages and technology
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Begonia leaf propagation
Begonia leaf propagation technology
The advantages of this method
Other options for vegetative propagation of begonia
Begonia can be propagated in several ways, but not all of them are suitable for beginner growers. Seed propagation is most often used only for breeding purposes, since it requires a long wait, but it can help you get unusual plants with an unusual set of traits. Begonia can also propagate by cuttings, fragments of rhizomes, but the simplest and most convenient option is to propagate begonia by a leaf.
How to care for royal begonia
As with every decorative leafy plant with variegated leaves, this begonia requires sufficient lighting. It should be noted that light shading will not particularly affect the variegation of the leaves of the royal begonia. This means that it is not at all necessary to put it on the windowsill. It is enough to place the plant in a well-lit place. There, begonia will receive enough light, and will not be exposed to the scalding rays of the sun, which can seriously harm the flower. At the same time, the lack of light will discolor the leaves, make them faded and inconspicuous. If you still want to put the royal begonia on the windowsill, then give preference to the east or west windows. There she will be less exposed to sunlight.
Begonia is a thermophilic plant, like all the indigenous inhabitants of the tropics. But, nevertheless, she gives preference to moderate temperatures. For all varieties of begonias adapted for growing at home, the most acceptable growing temperature in the summer is within + 18-23 degrees. But this is not a dogma. Small deviations in temperature will not harm it. If possible, move it to fresh air for the entire warm period.
Note. Royal begonia is difficult to tolerate drafts and dry air. Basically, this refers to the winter period of the plant's life, but it is also true in summer.
In winter, the royal begonia has a dormant period. And although it is not expressed explicitly, the plant slows down development. During this period, she needs a cool wintering. + 15-16 degrees will be the normal air temperature for the plant. It is possible and somewhat lower, but it is better not to risk it, there is a danger of overcooling the roots of the plant. Usually, in winter, begonia is placed on a windowsill, where, in most cases, the temperature is correct.
When wintering the royal begonia on the windowsill, place it so that the flower pot is not exposed to the cold, and the leaves of the plant do not touch the cold window glass. It is advisable to install the pot on a sheet of polystyrene. A container of water placed next to the flower can protect against the effects of dry air emanating from the radiators.
Watering and humidity
It is impossible to allow the soil to dry out in a pot with a royal begonia. The plant is very difficult to tolerate a lack of moisture. In the warmer months, the royal begonia should be watered regularly and abundantly. Be sure to monitor the condition of the soil. As soon as the topsoil has dried, water it. In winter, watering is reduced, and depends on the temperature of the content. The lower the temperature, the less watering.
As mentioned, royal begonia does not like dry air. But traditional spraying will have to be abandoned. Moisture on begonia leaves results in ugly brown spots. If you need to clean the leaves of the plant from dust, then you can use a damp sponge or cotton swab. You can humidify the air in different ways. The easiest way is to put a container of water next to the plant so that it evaporates and humidifies the air.
Royal begonia should be fed once a month. For top dressing, you can use both mineral and organic fertilizers. You can also alternate them. From mineral fertilizers, choose fertilizers for decorative deciduous plants. Organic matter can also be purchased, or you can prepare it yourself, using fermented horse or cow manure diluted with water in a ratio of 1: 5.
Learn more about the preparation of fertilizers - Fertilizers for indoor plants
Note. Fertilizers cannot be applied to dry soil. This is fraught with burns and damage to the root system of begonia. Top dressing should be combined with the next watering of the plant. First watering, and after a couple of hours top dressing.
It is held annually. The main thing to consider when transplanting is that begonia is a very fragile plant and can be easily damaged. Therefore, during transplants, and any other work related to caring for the royal begonia at home, one must act very carefully.
Due to the fact that the root system of the plant is superficial, that is, it grows mainly in breadth, and not in depth, the pot for it is selected wide and not very deep. If the pot is too deep, the extra space should be filled with expanded clay. This will both reduce its depth and serve as an excellent drainage. The fact is that the excess soil in the pot can sour, since the moisture contained in it will not be absorbed by the plant and stagnate. And this is very bad.
As for the land for the royal begonias, it should be nutritious enough, but at the same time light, well permeable to air and water. There are many ready-made soil mixtures suitable for transplanting begonias, but it is not difficult to compose it yourself.
Leafy land - part
Sod land - part
Peat - part
Coarse sand or perlite - part.
You can add a little humus earth from a greenhouse, fine pine bark, vermiculite, pieces of charcoal. Such supplements will only be beneficial.
Advice. If you have several varieties of royal begonias, then you can make interesting compositions by planting them in one pot.
Reproduction of royal begonia
Unfortunately, after 4-5 years, this plant loses its decorative attractiveness and grows. But there is nothing wrong. Royal begonia reproduces simply and in several ways. You can divide the rhizomes, root cuttings or leaves, and seed propagation of begonias is also practiced.
The most common breeding methods for royal begonias are by cuttings and leaves. These methods make it possible to grow a young plant relatively quickly while maintaining all maternal traits. At first glance, dividing the rhizome is faster and easier, but in this way it is better to divide young specimens. There is no point in dividing an overgrown plant. Seed propagation is mainly used if there is no parent plant, and begonia is grown from scratch.
Propagation of begonia by cuttings
The process is very simple. Cutting and rooting is carried out mainly in the spring. Chopped strong cuttings from the top of the plant can simply be placed in a glass of water and wait for the roots to appear. When the roots grow to a centimeter long, they can be planted in the ground. But you can also skip the process of growing roots in water, planting them immediately in light soil. It is advisable to create greenhouse conditions for planted cuttings, covering with a transparent cap - a glass jar or a plastic bag. The rooting process can be accelerated by using rooting stimulants.
Begonia leaf propagation
This method is also popular and quite simple. Several young plants can be obtained from one royal begonia leaf. To do this, it must be divided into segments. So that on each segment-triangle there are parts of the veins of the plant. In general, this process is very similar to the reproduction of streptocarpus in a similar way. Then the parts of the sheet are laid on the surface of the damp earth with the inner side and lightly pressed for a firm contact with the ground. After that, the container with parts of the begonia leaf is covered with film or glass, and placed in a warm place with bright but diffused lighting.
Note. Remove the tape and air the sheets every day. Not for long. Up to 15 minutes. Also remove condensation from the film. Keep an eye on the moisture content of the ground, but when wetting, avoid getting water on the leaves themselves.
The first shoots of young royal begonias will appear in a month and a half. Let them grow a little and get stronger, then you can seat them separately.
Royal begonia care - video
A certain method of reproduction is applicable to different species and varieties, therefore the result depends on its choice.
Cuttings can only be cut from stemmed begonias. This is the ever-flowering begonia and Elatior. The first takes root very quickly, the second with difficulty. Cutting flowering species helps to maintain the characteristics of the mother plant. You can reproduce in autumn or spring. When propagating tuberous begonias, it is recommended to separate the cuttings directly from the tuber itself.
When sprouting tubers in spring, it is necessary to separate several cuttings, which have reached a height of 12 cm. The slices should be powdered with charcoal and put on the table to dry. After a few hours, you can plant the cuttings in the ground.
Attention! Cuttings root better in the soil, when rooting in water, there is a high probability of rotting of the cut and the death of the crop
After planting in the soil, it is recommended to make a mini-greenhouse to speed up the rooting process. A month later, at the end of the cutting, you will notice the appearance of roots, the plant can be transplanted into another container.
The mother bush from which it is planned to take planting material must be placed in a cool place in the fall so that the tuber has a rest for 3 months.
The tuber is planted in January. After the stalk has built up a green mass, it is necessary to cut under the 2 upper leaves, leaving a stalk with one leaf on the tuber - it will give the stalk again, which can also be separated for reproduction. When propagated by cuttings, flowering will occur in August.
Autumn reproduction is similar to spring reproduction. Only tuber germination is not required. In August, you should dig out the tuber and separate the cuttings from it, each of which is planted in a separate glass, deepening the cut 4 cm deep. After rooting, care for the cuttings is the same as for adult plants.
Ornamental-leaved varieties reproduce with leaf plates. Each leaflet has a thick longitudinal vein on the inside, from which roots subsequently appear.
The leaf chosen for propagation must be large and healthy. When dividing into small fragments, you need to look so that a part of this vein is present on each of them.
To plant the cut pieces, you need to prepare an air-permeable soil consisting of an equal amount of peat and perlite. You can plant in 2 ways: either bury the fragments vertically, or lay them horizontally on the ground surface. It must be remembered that the thickened vein must be in contact with the ground, otherwise the leaf will not take root.
Which begonias are suitable for leaf plate propagation, because not every species and variety is suitable for such propagation.
- it is necessary to choose plants with a dense leaf, the back of the leaf plate should have noticeable pubescence
- some varieties of ampelous begonias with hanging shoots are also capable of propagating by a leaf plate
- when multiplying decorative-leaved begonia from one large leaf, you can get a large number of young plants
- a leaf stalk can be placed in water, and you can wait until it starts up roots, you can plant it immediately in the ground, or you can divide it into many fragments and root each of them separately.
Many are afraid to cut the leaf into pieces, especially when there is very little planting material. When propagating in parts of a leaf, it is important to have experience.
First, you need to practice on unpretentious varieties and on those that you will not mind losing, that is, there is an opportunity to cut off some of the leaves from the mother plant and try to root them. Many growers use the partial leaf propagation method when growing begonias commercially.
It can be rooted in another way. Take a whole sheet, turn it over with its back to you and make transverse cuts with a sharp blade or knife. Then lay the sheet of holes horizontally on the surface of the ground, pin it to the ground so that it does not bristle.
Leaf propagation - nuances
- Rooting should take place in a mini-greenhouse, high humidity and temperature will contribute to the early appearance of roots.
- The container with leaf fragments should stand on a light windowsill, but without direct sunlight, otherwise the fragments will pair.
- Every day you need to ventilate the greenhouse, moisten the soil as needed.
- A transplant should be carried out only after the plants are strong, otherwise it will be difficult for them to adapt to new conditions.
On a note! The ideal rooting method is to place the leaf fragments in a Zip bag. Moistening is carried out only once, before planting, the bag is not opened for airing, only before the young seedlings are planted.
A way that requires labor and constant attention. Suitable for experienced florists. The seeds are very small, therefore, before sowing, they must be mixed with dry river sand, and then evenly scattered over the surface.
When planting pelleted seeds, it is not recommended to bury them in the ground. Keeping the soil moist is the key to successful germination. If you do not keep track and let the soil dry out, the coated seeds will dry out, and it will be impossible to wake them up.
It is better to start sowing in January. Young plants need additional lighting with fluorescent lamps. With proper care, young begonias will have time to get stronger by the cold season.
After sowing, create a mini-greenhouse, put the container in a bright place, ventilate and moisten the soil as needed.
The first shoots appear 2 weeks after sowing. For young seedlings, it is important to change the conditions: you need to lower the temperature. After 2 true leaves appear on the plant, the seedlings dive into separate cups.
By dividing the tuber
The most effective way to propagate tuberous begonias. It is possible to divide the tuber of the mother plant only if the adult specimen is at least 3 years old and each has 3-5 healthy buds.
The division of the tuber is carried out in early spring, as soon as the buds begin to hatch. When the shoots grow back, it is no longer worth disturbing the mother plant, since you can lose all the planting material.
When dividing a tuber, it is important to take into account that there should be at least 1 kidney on each cut. Cut with a sharp knife. Places of cuts should be sprinkled with charcoal. Such treatment will allow superficial wounds to heal faster.
Parts of the tuber are seated in separate cups, covered with a part of a plastic bottle.
Attention! When planting, only the lower half of the tuber is deepened, the upper one remains on the surface!
After the leaves appear, the shelter must be removed, and when the sprouts reach 7 cm in height, the upper part of the tuber will need to be sprinkled with soil.
By dividing the bush
An adult plant propagates in this way. In order to get new specimens, begonias should be removed from the pot, shaken off the ground as much as possible, and old foliage and stems removed. When dividing, it is important to look at each division to have roots and growth points. After all the manipulations, new plants are planted in separate containers and sent to a light windowsill for growing.
Begonia: reproduction in the main ways
Most begonias reproduce in the following ways:
- parts of a sheet
- dividing the bush.
If you do not take into account the peculiarities of each type of begonia, then the plant will not take root or bloom, therefore, first of all, you need to know exactly the variety of your flower. Let's consider each breeding method in more detail.
Cuttings. First you need to cut a small stalk with a clean knife. Try to choose a stem that has several leaves. The latter will have to be removed, and the uppermost ones should be slightly trimmed.
Separately prepare a pot of potting soil, which can be purchased at the store or mixed by hand. In a small hole made in the ground, lower the cutting and cover with soil. For better growth, you can use special growth stimulants. The cutting itself must be protected from drafts and cold by covering it with a plastic bottle or plastic bag. After a while, the young begonia will take root and young leaves will appear on it. It is necessary to accustom to the air gradually and very carefully.
Reproduction by a sheet. This option is ideal for those begonias that do not have a stem. Moreover, even from one leaf, you can get many new shoots. To do this, you need to cut off a large, healthy leaf, spread it on the table and cut it into triangular leaves, moving in the direction from the middle of the vein to the edges.
Each of these pieces must have one or two veins. Stick the leaves into the soil and cover with plastic. The essence of the method is to create the required level of air humidity, therefore it is recommended to periodically irrigate the soil with a pulverizer. When young leaves appear, you can "acquaint" the plant with fresh air by removing the bag for several minutes a day.
Reproduction by seeds. Suitable for flowering begonias. The seeds can be purchased at any specialty store. Before planting, be sure to mix the soil with sand and slightly moisten it. Press the seeds into the ground, and then cover with earth and cover with a bag. Place in a warm, well-lit place, but not in direct sunlight. Seedlings will sprout in a few weeks. It can be transplanted into separate containers as soon as the first leaf comes out.
Division of a bush or rhizome. If begonia grows in a bush, it can be divided and planted. To do this, you need to get the plant out of the pot and gently wash the roots in warm water. Using a sharp knife, cut the rhizome into pieces so that each has a sprout or bud.
If you are the owner of a tuberous begonia, then you can take the opportunity and propagate the flower by dividing the tuber. As soon as small shoots appear in early spring, they must be cut off with a sharp knife and divided into parts, dried. After landing in open ground, half-buried and covered with a bag.
It is important not to forget about drainage for each sprout, otherwise the roots may start to rot, as well as the need to use a small pot in the early stages of growth, sometimes a plastic cup will be enough. Begonia and its reproduction at home is a simple and very pleasant business, because flowers can decorate your home all year round.
Video: Decorative leafy begonia: propagation by a leaf or its fragment.
During the period of abundant flowering, it is advisable to tie a capricious southerner to a support, otherwise a thick fragile stem may break under the weight of numerous flowers. For feeding seedlings, sodium humate is used twice a month, and potassium-phosphorus fertilizers twice a month. An adult plant is fed with ordinary mineral fertilizers once a month. It is good to water begonia 2-3 times per season with manure solution (1:10). And in the fall, fertilizers are not used at all.
To ensure full growth and good flowering of the southerner, it is necessary to maintain uniform moisture and soil drainage. Begonia is watered early in the morning or late in the evening and always with warm water. With daytime watering, the delicate leaves of the plant can be easily burned. The "burnt" leaves, as a rule, fall off. And if you water it on a hot day, then it is quite possible to ruin the root system. So it's better not to carry out such experiments))
A capricious, beautiful begonia must be carefully looked after. But she does not remain in debt and pleases us with her magnificent flowering and aroma.
How to plant geraniums?
Geraniums do not form root children, but the bushes sometimes grow strongly due to the branching of the main stems. This is a good reason to take cuttings. But in this case, it is necessary to focus not on the quality of the cuttings, but on the condition of the bush, so that after pruning it becomes neater, better ventilated and evenly illuminated. To do this, remove all the shoots that you don't like: curves sticking out to the side, growing inside the bush, bare, etc. Then, cuttings with two buds on each can be cut from these extra branches, the presence of leaves is not necessary. As a result, we will rejuvenate pelargonium and get additional planting material that can be planted in separate pots.
Video: Pruning Geranium
Care and cultivation of indoor ever-flowering begonia at home (with video)
Actually, forcing begonias is not even forcing. It is simply about growing traditional indoor begonias at home. And there are begonias that can be grown in the garden and in the room.
There are many different and beautiful begonias. I have several types of them growing at home. True, two begonias disappeared at the very beginning of my love for them - I did not know then how much they love moisture, moist air. Later I found out from experienced flower growers that when growing and caring for begonias at home, a pot of begonias should be placed on a tray or a deep dish of water, but so that the pot does not touch the water. For example, you can put it on an upside-down plate. Or you can cover the dish or tray with a layer of pebbles and pour water on the pebbles. In addition, you need to spray the air around the begonias - such water sprinklers are now on sale. It is the air that needs to be sprayed, not the flowers and leaves! The temperature is normal room temperature, light from the window, but not direct sun.
In winter, pots with begonia are set for five hours on the windowsill, on which the sun's rays fall. But if you have ever-flowering begonia growing, you don't have to expose it, it tolerates the shade better than other species, like, by the way, the direct sun.
I water it moderately, and even more moderately in winter. Three times a year I feed with complex mineral fertilizers.
For home conditions, ever-flowering begonia is ideal. Firstly, its name is not a figure of speech, but a real fact - this begonia blooms all the time, blooms brightly, colorfully, a lot - white, pink, red, orange. And her leaves are like flowers: they are not only green, but also copper, bronze. Secondly, even special varieties of ever-flowering begonias have been bred specifically for growing in pots: their bushes are much lower than the bushes of garden begonias. I have two varieties of dwarf begonias: Organdy and Thousand Wonder White. The first has flowers of the brightest colors among the green leaves, the second has white flowers, as you might guess from the name, very delicate, and the leaves are bronze in color. Very exquisite plants. The main thing when caring for indoor begonias at home is not to get carried away when breeding miniature girls with top dressing, after all, these beauties are more capricious than non-dwarf types of begonias.
After the begonias have bloomed, I dig up the tubers and store them in the basement in the sand in winter, and in early March, when the buds begin to swell on the tubers, I begin to germinate the tubers: I process them with the Maxim preparation (sold in the store) and plant them in boxes with a substrate from humus, leafy soil, peat and sand in a ratio of 1: 2: 1: 1 (you can just into peat). Tubers need to be buried in a damp substrate or peat by half.
The boxes are in my room there should be no direct sun and drafts, the air should be sufficiently humid. Begonias should be watered sparingly. First, the roots appear, and then the sprouts. When the sprouts have already appeared, but the leaves are not yet, the tubers must be divided. To do this, I cut the tubers in such a way that one sprout and roots remain on each part. I cauterize the cut with iodine. You can use brilliant green, or you can powder it with crushed charcoal. Then I dry for 2-3 minutes.
I plant the delenki in pots, and arrange them so that the top of the delenki is flush with the substrate. I water it carefully.
Then I plant the boxes from the boxes, one at a time, in pots with a substrate. Sprinkle the tops of the begonia delenka with grown sprouts with a substrate to which humus and ash are added. I water begonias very carefully.
I plant begonias in the garden after all spring frosts have passed. This usually happens in May. Begonias grow well in the shade, but do not like the wind.
The soil is recommended loose with good drainage, fertilized with humus and ash.
Watering is a very important part of begonias care. It is impossible for the water to stagnate - begonias can begin to rot. Watering is best done in the morning.
I try to tie the stems of begonias. During the season, I feed the mullein three times with an aqueous solution in a ratio of 10: 1, and in the fall, no additional fertilizing is needed, just as watering is not needed after the aerial part has died and the leaves have fallen off.
Two weeks after that, I dig out the tubers, clean them from the ground, from old roots and store them in the sand in the basement. Can be stored not in sand, but in peat or sawdust. The tubers should not touch. I check them several times in the winter in order to remove the rotten ones in time.
Young begonias, which have small tubers, I place after digging in separate boxes, in which they hibernate. Usually I have these boxes in a glazed loggia. I water them in moderation. In the spring they start to grow and I put them in pots.
Watch the Home Begonia Care video for a better understanding of how to grow a plant in your room: